On a hot summer’s day, Berlin’s Olympiastadion announces itself as a sudden, startling silhouette rising up from the greenery of a 130-hectare park commissioned by Hitler for the 1936 Olympic Games. The afternoon I visited for Germany’s World Cup clash against Ecuador in 2006, the weather was punishingly humid, and the entire crowd seemed to be wearing black-and-white German shirts. Caught up in the beery throng in my striped O’Neill’s League of Ireland kit, I was the exception, and cheery Teutonic match-goers were delighted to guess that I was Scottish.“Hibernian! Hibernian!” they said, pointing at my green and white jersey....