On a hilltop looking out over the Armenian capital, Yerevan, are a dozen towering grey granite pillars, built leaning towards each other in a circle. In the ground below there’s a burning flame that commemorates the more than one million Armenian people who were exterminated a century ago. A large wreath is resting against one pillar, set down by French president Emmanuel Macron a few days ago. A summit of nearly 50 European leaders in Yerevan was staged five minutes walk away, in a futuristic looking event centre built during the later years of Soviet rule in the south Caucasus...