I was standing in the middle of Piazza dei Martiri, and for the first time since arriving in Naples I could breathe. Compared with the frenzy of the Spanish Quarter, the Chiaia district has an elegance to it. Instead of souvenir shops, there are designer fashion outlets. Rather than sputtering old Fiats, there are Teslas. You can imagine the ambassadors, nobility and visiting admirals who slept in the district’s palaces in centuries past. In the middle of the piazza stands a statue that shares a resemblance with Nelson’s Column. It has a tall central shaft and, just like the Trafalgar...