There are “two dirty words” in relation to photography, Helmut Newton said. “One is ‘art’ the other is ‘good taste’.” Despite this, in the years since the establishment of the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin in 2003 and his sudden death in a car accident a few months later, the pioneering fashion photographer’s innovative, provocative work has increasingly been spoken about in those terms. Well, the former term, anyway. Newton might have protested, telling the photography specialist Philippe Garner on more than one occasion that his archives should be “tipped into the Mediterranean” — he could never quite bring himself...