The sun rises early at this time of year, hitting the south of the beach first before chasing the shadows north, the gradual retreat of the darkness to the light. Hanukah, the Jewish festival of lights, was being celebrated here on Sunday evening, when the darkness came brutally roaring back. At dawn on Friday, people came in their thousands, in their many colours and their many tribes, to be back in the sea. “In this time of darkness, let’s spread light, love and compassion,” the crowd was urged, before thousands took surfboards and rescue boards, or simply swam out to...