To this day, many Canadians are a bit embarrassed that their city is called “Muddy Water”. Winnipeg, the miles-from-nowhere capital of prairie province Manitoba, is so-named after the Western Cree words for the nearby lake – “win” (muddy) and “nipi” (water). For many visitors to Canada, it’s little more than a blip on the in-flight map between the more compelling east and west coasts. Most people choose Toronto (ostentatious), Vancouver (outdoorsy), or Montreal (ooh la la) when flying to the country. Yet when I land in the heart of this vast grassland, it seems like a homecoming. Many Brits will...