This was not going to be an ordinary trip to the market. When I pulled up to the brand-new Erewhon in Manhattan Beach, one woman was filming her review of a $20 smoothie and another was taste-testing an expensive assortment of healthy prepared sides including something called “killer cauliflower.” The scene gave me pause. I love supermarkets, but not the fancy ones. I grew up in the air-conditioned, processed-food comfort of Ralphs and Vons and remain a sucker for anything flavored with nacho cheese, sour cream and onion, sweet sriracha, honey mustard and cool ranch. Newsletter You're reading the Essential...