At the vast monument in the mountains north of Madrid where the dictator Francisco Franco was once buried, a long, orderly queue is forming. Standing beneath the 150m stone cross that crowns this site, known as The Valley of the Fallen, the people are waiting to enter the basilica-crypt that is drilled 260m into the mountain in order to attend Sunday Mass. Although a religious service is held here every week, on this occasion many more people than normal have turned out, heeding calls for a protest against the government’s plans to “resignify” the monument in order to ensure that...