Cate Thurston remembers the moment her team settled on what to call an exhibition about Jewish delis in America. “We kind of just said it as a joke,” the co-curator says. “It was a former colleague who said, ‘You could call it this,’ and we all had a laugh. And then we thought, wait, no, we could call it that!” The title they chose: I’ll Have What She’s Having. Comedy fans will recognise it as the punchline from arguably the most famous deli scene in film history: Meg Ryan faking an orgasm in front of Billy Crystal, provoking wide-eyed stares...