From the main road of Dehradun’s Race Course area, the cream pediment of St Francis of Assisi Catholic Church is visible through the open gate. Inside, it’s a tranquil morning after mass, winter roses are blooming in the garden, and cleaning is underway. Having walked from the street into the freshly mopped church, I realise I am not exactly endearing myself to the cleaners. But I have arrived at the perfect time – the sunshine streaming in through doors and windows opened to hasten the floor’s drying also illuminates the building’s richly frescoed walls. Adorning the church’s interiors and offering...