Six days after the Hamas attacks on Israel, a restaurant known for serving some of Berlin’s best hummus announced it would reopen its doors. The restaurant, Kanaan, had been hastily shuttered as Jewish communities across Europe wrestled with a rise in antisemitism. But, as the world watched in horror as war gripped his homeland, Oz Ben David knew the time had come to reopen. “If you are closing up, you are surrendering to terror,” he said. “We will not agree to this kind of language of fear.” The decision hinted at the singularity that has defined Kanaan since it opened...