I’d heard about Italian renaissance architecture, but I didn’t know anything about the Lublin renaissance. I arrive in Poland’s ninth largest city just as the sun sets. I haven’t really taken a second to look around until I get into my room at Avatary Miasta hotel (doubles from £78 B&B) in the old town’s market square. I drop my bags at the door and run to the window to take in what looks like an Italian piazza. It’s not what I expected from a lesser-known Polish city: pastel-coloured buildings with ornate white mouldings and impressive pediments facing each other around...