Mostar is the bucket-list city for every tourist to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Its Old Town features pre-Ottoman, eastern Ottoman, Mediterranean and western European architectural features and the rebuilt Unesco-designated Old Bridge that dates back to 1459. Every spring and summer the Old Town is visited by tens of thousands of day-tripper tourists and backpackers, yet only 10 minutes away, on the west side of the city, is another equally important historical landmark that sits abandoned and partially destroyed, where few tourists ever venture. The Partisan Memorial Cemetery has no clearly visible ideological design or signage – it was supposed to...