C hugging into 2023 is the much-anticipated London-to-Berlin sleeper train, loaded up with revellers wishing to let off some steam, the art crowd, and Wiener schnitzel pilgrims. They’ll be jumping aboard the raver express from May 25, if they’re crafty enough to navigate the first ticket release round. So with gloriously gritty, hip, and happening Berlin falling back on our radars, here’s a fast-paced romp through the experimental German capital and its thrumming, counter-culture energy (Berlin’s years are dog years to us Londoners, with new restaurants, bars, concept stores, coffee shops, and bars tirelessly popping up in the most gloriously...