Above the imposing steeple of Berlin’s Zwingli church, a blood moon greets crowds gathering for the 100th birthday party of an undead legend: Nosferatu. A century ago this landmark vampire movie terrified audiences worldwide – and triggered legal action as an unlicensed German adaptation of Irish author Bram Stoker’s novel, Dracula. This evening, however, the tables have been turned and the long-nailed German vampire has become a poster boy for Irish cultural diplomacy. The pews are packed, the lights fade and the expressionist silent film crackles to life. From their seats before the altar, a live improvised electronic score is...