The deli menu hangs on the wall as a customer peruses the store and a worker preps an order at Kaufman's Bagel & Delicatessen on June 25, 2022, in Skokie. (Max Abrams/for the Chicago Tribune) “Do you have anything fat-free or sugar-free?” a customer recently asked the guy behind the counter at Kaufman’s. His reply: “Yes — if you go up to the register, they have napkins.” Advertisement “She was so insulted,” says Kaufman’s owner Bette Dworkin. “I was hysterical.” At this Skokie deli, patience runs as thin as the sliced pastrami. If you encounter any gruffness, think of it...