I meander up the narrow streets to the top of the hilly town. In the dawn light, I catch a sliver of the north Aegean Sea, which a turboprop plane had carried me over at dusk the day before on the hourlong connecting flight from Athens. On my first walk through the village of Kontopouli, the roosters are crowing. A sleepy donkey lies next to a chicken in a fenced-in field. The pomegranate trees on the narrow streets are weighted down, nearly ready for harvest. The fish man — with his freshly caught calamari and silvery sardines, which we’ll eat...